Some experts believe the word “Raramuri” actually means “those who run fast.” Think Macy’s the day after Thanksgiving. The scary part, however, was dodging Mexican wolves and cougars that prowled about in the dark even though Raramuri hunted their prey by chasing them till exhaustion. That’s about 16.5 marathons AT ONCE !! Barefoot !! Before Gatorade !! Well, they did carbo-load with lots of corn beer and sometimes kick a ball along for enjoyment so it wasn’t all that bad. These darn fast, healthy specimen could literally run for days and it was not uncommon for one such “foot runner” to cover as much as 435 miles in one go. So, long before cell phones and texting, the only way villagers could communicate with the outside world was by messenger. These settlements were and are separated by inhospitable terrain. Even today, many still live in caves, beneath rock outcroppings on cliffs, or in modest yet more modern cabins. As conditions worsened for them under Spanish rule in the 16th century, they took refuge in Copper Canyon for the rugged landscape offered them shelter. Long before the Spaniards arrived to search for gold and silver, the Tarahumara were widespread. Also called Raramuri (the two names are somewhat interchangeable), they’re found scattered about Mexico’s northern region. If you know America’s indigenous peoples, then you’re well aware of the Tarahumara. So, it was not until 1961 that the final stake was driven into the track signaling the train was now ready to leave the station. Well, that all went by the wayside because the task was far too daunting. Their leader Albert Kinsey Owen was bent, so to speak, on creating a utopian socialist community and convinced General Manuel Gonzales, Mexico’s President in 1880, that he needed the railroad to achieve this goal. All this was the hair-brain idea of some curious folks from New Harmony, Indiana known as the Utopia Socialist Colony. The entire route traverses more than three-dozen bridges, some 86 tunnels, endless canyons and grab-the-camera-honey vistas. Even jaded travelers exclaim that this tops the list of America’s most spectacular railroad stretches as well as one of the world’s top ten in the same category. It runs 400 miles from Chihuahua to Los Mochis smack through Copper Canyon. “ChePe” is short for the “Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad.” It, however, is not short. Even UNESCO identified it as one of their coveted World Heritage Sites, which brings us to the subject of “ChePe” - not to be confused with that Hollywood personality who keeps wiggling, saying “Koochi Koochi.” The Train That Could But proud locals point out that the entire region measures seven times greater than that of the Grand Canyon, so it is whopping big. Some travelers note the similarity to Arizona’s Grand Canyon, and they are right. In Spanish, it’s called, “Barranca del Cobre” and isn’t really just one canyon but a series of 20 carved by the powerful forces of time and six mighty rivers. Well, most everyone comes to Topolobampo to journey inland to Copper Canyon. Her six thousand, give or take, inhabitants savor warm summer sun, fish fresh from the sea, and an easy lifestyle that drops their blood pressure several points. It is, in fact, the small but lively Mexican port town tucked up into the convoluted shoreline of the state of Sinaloa lapped by the tepid waters of the Gulf of California. Nor is it Rick Bayless’ famous Chicago eatery. Sounds like a Richie Valens’ hit from 1958? Well, it’s not.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |